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#12 |
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Banned
![]() Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 42
Location: Muttrah City
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Fine... how about $1,000.
Will I still be able to play those games listed on High w/ 0 lag? |
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#13 | |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 501
Location: Brisbane
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Quote:
Three areas where we could cut down in costs is: PSU As I said above, I've selected a modular PSU. This is considered a premium part and carries a higher price over non-modular designs. You could save some money by switching to another model such as corsair's tx650. Corsair's products also tend to be a little more expensive so you may consider switching to another brand. The current model is a 650W PSU; This is perfect for dual 6870s. If you do not plan to ever upgrade to a dual card setup you can choose a cheaper 500W model instead. Keep in mind, try not to be too cheap when choosing a PSU. While it does not directly affect performance of games, it is what is powering those components that are; if you've selected a PSU that is of inferior quality, you may end up with decreased performance, extra heat and potentially damaging or destroying your other components. The quality of your PSU also has a big impact on overclocking as factors such as good voltage regulation (not much voltage variance at different load levels) will allow you to set a lower voltage to achieve the same overclock and thus less heat. Motherboard Again, you may be able to find cheaper models. From memory this board has USB 3.0 (internal & external), Sata 3 and two PCI-e 3.0 lanes. Cheaper models usually means less features. If you do not plan to have a second graphics card you will not require the second PCI-e lane. Some boards offer better overclocking and more overclocking features than others, however you do not need anything too fancy for this. Most people will only need the very basic options. Look out for reviews for any particular boards. You do not need to read the whole thing, simply reading the conclusion will generally give you a good enough idea if there's any issues with the board. SSD Again a premium product, and the easiest place to save some money from. It has benefit in mostly multitasking, desktop experience and loading times. If you don't maintain your PC very well you'll probably see massive benefit to this as well, since you'll probably have several different background programs and services running which will be accessing your hard drive/s from time to time; This would be a nightmare on a single mechanical hard drive, however the addition of a SSD will amend this depending on it's implementation. If you install ARMA II on the SSD it will also have gains. While it doesn't exactly have a constant fps improvement it alleviates certain situations of stuttering and lod thrashing. While personally I wouldn't go without one myself nowadays (as it greatly improves my desktop experience which is where I spend the majority of my time), you can save a good fair deal of money if you drop it from the build. Two other areas that you could save money would be RAM & GPU. While I'm not suggesting getting a weaker graphics card, you might be able to find better deals; different models or even the exact model I've listed depending on which company the board has been branded under. Personally I wouldn't recommend it, but you could drop down to 4GiB of ram. This shouldn't make much difference in the short term and it's easily enough expanded upon in the future. Though you'd have to ask is saving ~$21 that important. Exiled. | |
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#14 |
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Banned
![]() Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 42
Location: Muttrah City
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Thing is... I am not good with making PC's physically. I am not good wireing at all.
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#15 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 501
Location: Brisbane
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#16 | |
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Support Technician
![]() Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,365
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Quote:
really simple like legos | |
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#17 |
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Banned
![]() Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 42
Location: Muttrah City
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Guys'...
you are making me cry of emotional pain. I am proud of you all... You wanna know what you will be getting now???? Free Air! But I am very confused by Mobo stuff. |
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#18 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 501
Location: Brisbane
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What exactly about the motherboard confuses you? How to choose one?
Well it's simple enough. Search for something along the lines of "1155 Motherboard" in newegg. 1155 is the number of pins in the H2 socket which sandy bridge and Ivy Bridge use. A close-up picture of an LGA 1155 (H2) socket on a motherboard. From that list find motherboards that contain "p67" or "z68" in their names; these are known as chipsets. Chipsets basically tell you several features and functions that the board will have. Both of the above chipsets allow overclocking. The z68 has all the functions of the p67 and a couple of extra; you probably won't use these anyway. z68 boards will be slightly more expensive than their p67 counterparts. Put all the z68 and p67 boards that are within your budget in a separate browser window. Once you have enough, look through their general features. Eliminate whichever do not have the features you are looking for such as multiple PCI-e slots if you plan to have multiple graphics cards, SATA 3 (6Gb/s not 3Gb/s) and/or USB 3.0 etc. When you only have motherboards that offer all the features you want, take a look at the newegg review section and proper full blown reviews on review sites (you only need to read the conclusion if you want to), do this starting at the least expensive board; this step is quality control, you are looking for issues. Remember, people are much more likely to post a review on newegg if they are unsatisfied; if a product has a high volume out and yet only a few reviews, if the majority of them are negative, this doesn't mean you are likely to encounter this issue (further research this issue). Take the cheapest board that has all the features that you want and passes your quality control check. Exiled. |
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#19 |
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Support Technician
![]() Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,365
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#20 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 164
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Quote:
This is a pretty good setup, but a few things don't follow good PC building guidelines (save money/future proof). 1. Motherboard: Nothing special about it and you can save $35 going with this nearly identical one. - Newegg.com - ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard 2. GPU: Again, $20 more for the same thing (I can vouch for Sapphire as a good brand since I have one). - Newegg.com - SAPPHIRE 100314-3L Radeon HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card 3. RAM: You recommend one than can be easily replaced with a better alternative of equal price. - Newegg.com - G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM 4. Case: This was by far the worst mistake. For the same price as that "Nice cheap one", you can get superior quality cases. Anyways, as a rule of thumb, invest in a nice case, as you can use it again on your next build (utilize the $67 I saved for this). Unlike computer parts, cases don't become outdated. - $40 - Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER Elite 430 RC-430-KWN1 Black Steel / Plastic Computer Case - $50 - Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER HAF 912 RC-912-KKN1 Black SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - $75 - Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER RC-692-KKN2 CM690 II Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - $80 (used to be $120 BEST DEAL) - Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER HAF 922 RC-922M-KKN1-GP Black Steel + Plastic and Mesh Bezel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case 5. CD/DVD Drive: I see no difference but $12 - Newegg.com - ASUS 24X DVD Burner - Bulk 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS - CD / DVD Burners Otherwise it is a goo build. I also strongly agree with cutting the SSD if you need to cut costs, as it is a premium product and the prices have been dropping fairly consistently in the past year. |
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